'Pa' means game, and 'sola' means spear. This traditional Sumbanese game of spears is so ancient its date of origin is uncertain. It's played by men with great skill in horse riding and spear throwing, who are divided by their ancestral tribe or region. The game has symbolic meaning, where the aim is to hit the opponent and draw blood. According to legend it's necessary for blood to be spilt in order to ensure successful harvest and fertility for the whole of Sumba. A long time ago the spears were sharpened but are now dulled, as its underlying purpose is to be a medium for maintaining peace and settling disputes. For onlookers it's also an event for socializing and making friends.
I had the opportunity to take a day off work and attend the Pasola for the first time. It took place on a massive field in Lamboya, which was surrounded by hordes of cheering spectators. The game had started, and every time an opponent was hit the crowd from the same clan would go wild, jumping up and down yelling "mati!" (dead). Even though opponents rarely die when hit they say this because many years ago the same hit would be more fatal. But don't get me wrong, even the momentum of a blunt spear being thrown on a galloping horse can do damage. One player was hit in the face and his cheek was torn by the impact, spilling the first blood. The crowd roared, I even saw an old man look up at the sky and yell "hujan!" (rain). It's amazing how strong their beliefs are, how the blood could even bring rain for the season, resulting in a good harvest for the year.
I thought that attending this event and watching from the sidelines wouldn't be dangerous. I was proven wrong the very moment the Pasola finished. The horses were being taken off the field, and I was still taking photos. I was focused on the camera, but in my peripherals I see everyone disbursing and running, fast. That's when I saw the rocks flying overhead, coming from opposing crowds from both sides of the field. A riot had started. I was frozen, and my heart was racing. I only started moving when I heard the rocks landing nearby. Seconds after running to shelter tear gas was shot into the crowd by the police, who were also firing their guns up in the air. Even under shelter, people were holding their hands above their heads as the rocks were crashing on the roof.
